Fasting Podvarak (Sauerkraut with Mushrooms and Walnuts)

Preparation

1. Preparing the Sauerkraut

Place the shredded sauerkraut in a large colander and gently squeeze by hand to release excess acidity. If it is very sour (test the tip of your tongue), rinse once with cold water and squeeze again. Separate the strands with your fingers — they must not be compressed into clumps, otherwise the cabbage will not braise evenly.

2. Preparing the Mushrooms

Clean the mushrooms with a damp cloth or rinse briefly (do not soak them — they absorb water). Slice button mushrooms into 4–5 mm slices. If using porcini, cut into smaller pieces. In a large frying pan, heat 30 ml of oil and fry the mushrooms over high heat for 5–7 minutes until the liquid they release has evaporated and they begin to turn golden. Season lightly with pepper and salt. Set aside.

3. Caramelising the Onion

In a large ovenproof pot or deep wide pan, heat the remaining oil (70 ml). Add the finely diced onion and cook over medium heat for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft, translucent and a beautiful golden colour. This is a crucial step — properly cooked onion gives the podvarak its sweetness and depth of flavour.

Just before the end of cooking, remove the pot from the heat, add the sweet and hot paprika and stir (take care — paprika burns quickly). Return to the heat for just 10 seconds, then remove again.

4. Braising the Cabbage

Add the squeezed sauerkraut to the pot with the onion and stir carefully. Add the bay leaf, dried mint (if using), pepper and a cup of water. Cover and braise over a low heat for 30–40 minutes, stirring occasionally. The cabbage should soften but still retain a slight bite — never mushy.

5. Combining with Mushrooms and Walnuts

Once the cabbage is tender, add the fried mushrooms and ground walnuts. Stir thoroughly to distribute everything evenly. Taste and adjust salt and pepper (the sauerkraut is already salty, so be cautious).

6. Oven Finish

Preheat the oven to 180°C. If you have been using a pan that cannot go in the oven, transfer everything to an ovenproof baking dish. Level the surface and drizzle with a few tablespoons of oil. Bake for 30–40 minutes until a golden-brown crispy crust forms on top and the liquid has partially evaporated.

For the last 10 minutes, you can switch on the grill (broiler) for extra colour and crispiness — keep an eye through the oven door so it does not burn.

7. Serving

Podvarak is even better the next day — the flavours come together and deepen further. Serve warm with a slice of sourdough bread. The traditional accompaniment is pickled cucumbers or tursija (mixed pickles). A small glass of plum brandy can be served alongside (outside of fasting contexts).

Tips

Etymology of the name: the word “podvarak” comes from the verb “podvariti” — meaning to braise slowly under a low heat, in its own juices, until all the ingredients have melded and reached a deep, concentrated flavour. This is an ancient slow-cooking technique that is essential to the final taste. Fast cooking over high heat is not podvarak — that is merely braised cabbage.

Meat version (outside fasting): traditional mrsni (non-fasting) podvarak is made with dried sausage, bacon or smoked meat instead of mushrooms. Our fasting version with mushrooms and walnuts is a worthy alternative that retains the richness of flavour thanks to the umami notes of the mushrooms.

Dried mint (a key spice): in eastern Serbia and the Niš area, dried spearmint is traditionally added to podvarak — it gives a characteristic refreshing finish that works wonderfully against the acidity of the sauerkraut. If you cannot find it, leave it out — but try it at least once to discover the difference.

Symbolism and Slava: although not traditionally the main Slava dish, podvarak often appears on Slava tables during fasting Slavas (e.g. St Sava on 27 January, which often falls in Great Lent; St Nicholas on 19 December which falls in the Nativity Fast). It is rich, satisfying and worthy of guests.

Strict fast (oil-free): for the strict fast, omit the oil — sweat the onion and mushrooms in their own juices, adding a little water as needed. The fast type becomes water. The flavour will be less rich but still satisfying.

Make ahead: podvarak can be prepared a day in advance and simply reheated in the oven for 20 minutes at 180°C — the flavour is even better then. This makes it ideal for preparing ahead for Christmas Eve (Badnji Dan) or large fasting Slavas.

With potatoes: in the Šumadija region, diced potatoes (about 300 g) are sometimes added to podvarak — the potato absorbs the excess acidity of the cabbage and makes the dish even more filling.